GeoMetron Bikes is a rider-owned, independent bike company based in Monmouth, South Wales. Born from a desire to push the boundaries and question the status quo on geometry and suspension kinematics.
It’s the details that really matter to us, we take our time to make sure everything is perfect. We’re not here to make thousands of bikes, we’re here to make a handful of great bikes that will be truly meaningful for their owners.
Our goal is lifelong customers.
The Bikes Speak!....... Actually. They Shout.
If a slack head angle, low bottom bracket and long wheelbase is better, faster and safer then why not keep going? Can it be even better, even faster and even safer? We are not bound by what we think the ‘market’ wants nor are we bound by the road bike heritage, so we have the freedom to design bikes for ourselves to be long, slack and low and test those theories. Well, we did just that and they really, really work! Don’t just take our word for it… We have fully built up test bikes to prove it to you!
62-63.5° Head Angle to handle well at speed and in the difficult situations (we’ve expressed HA as a range because we can fit different length forks and shocks to achieve the best solution).
To make sure it’s fast over the bumps we lowered the Bottom Bracket as far as we dare (340mm approx) so that we can get the weight on the cranks swinging under the front axle and not driving the front axle into the bump face. We also tailored the anti-squat to be just enough when you are in the gears used for technical climbs. In this way, the anti-squat falls away reducing the feeling of ‘hang-up’ on the bump edge as you shift into higher gears. This involved us specifying a higher main pivot in the first instance and allows a range of 30T, 32T or 34Tchainrings and an individual ride height depending on your riding focus.
We have a steeper than normal 77° – 79° seat angle to get a better drive over the cranks when the bike is climbing. We have enough room in the GeoMetron’s cockpit to allow a comfortable saddle position and gain a more direct drive over the cranks without sliding the saddle back or using a long stem. We tailored the linkage progression to suit a modern air shock and more dynamic, modern riding style. With most modern linkage designs being way too linear for the UK market this will be a massive benefit to the dynamic rider.
MADE IN GERMANY
Every Geometron frame is 100% made in Germany by our partner Nicolai Bicycles
All Geometron frames are handmade by highly skilled engineers with a keen eye for detail, a high level of craftsmanship and welding. We truly believe we are producing the best aluminium bicycle frames in the world. A seal of quality – Safe, Reliable, Robust!
WE LOVE BIKES....
Long ones, longer ones, mountain, road (OK this only applies to Paul)…. If it’s got two wheels (that includes motorcycles too) it’s OK in our book. We choose to start GeoMetron Bikes to share our love and passion, we know our bikes aren’t going to appeal to the masses but honestly how boring would that be.
The GeoMetron Team
Rides: G1M (G1-Medium), what a dude. He's changed his outfit more times than Keira Knightly. I like to test all the available options on our G1. I've ridden 470mm chain stay to 445mm, 340mm BB to 320mm, 27.5", 29" and Daibryd (worshop slang for Hybrid). One of the most poignant features ive tested, re-tested and just bolted back on it the spherical bearing Storia V3 vs the standard eyelet V2. I really enjoy riding the V3 G1 shock, not that the V2 is bad, i can just find so much more mid turn grip and not experience harsh bottom outs on the V3 G1. This can be attributed to the spherical bearings and the HBC. Recently I've kept my testing qualitative over quantitative because our test tracks have a number of uncontrollable input factors during this time of year which usually result in the same negative result. Therefore my main goal between the bike and me is the positive output at the bottom of the trail. I always find myself back on 29" wheels, 330mm BB and 445 CS. Some things do remain consistent, my components. Hope Tech 3 E4 brakes, 185mm drop BikeYoke post, 203mm rotor up front and a 183mm out back and above all other components I must have my Hope F20 Flats and a Dfender on there.
Rides: G1M (G1-Medium), what a dude. He’s changed his outfit more times than Keira Knightly. I like to test all the available options on our G1. I’ve ridden 470mm chain stay to 445mm, 340mm BB to 320mm, 27.5″, 29″ and Daibryd (worshop slang for Hybrid). One of the most poignant features ive tested, re-tested and …
Rides: G1L (Longest G1 - Hybrid) I've been spending a bit of time lately trying to get to grips with why I never liked 29 wheels and trying to find a way to make those big hoops handle for me as comfortably as I ride hybrid or 27.5! ;-) So… My set-up currently is all about making a 29er to suit me ;-) I like turns, I like speed, i don't like to have to pedal to create momentum but when I do pedal I want it to count! I've found that I can't use a semi-slick on a 29er on steep trails I can't get the rear to slow enough to let go of the front in places… So I'm on a grippier rest tyre than I've ever run on the rear! But I've found that because of the lager contact patch and the central rider placement I can actually get away with the speed over the ground of a grippy rear tyre on the 29… I'm all about narrow rims 'cos they roll quicker! I've been running the L bike with the 452 chain stay length but with no seat stay mutators to give me a ridiculously low bb height of around 320-325. I've been running a choice of either Formula Selva R fork or a F*x 36 with our MORC crowns on there. I run a low bar rolled forward to encourage me to stay flat over the bike with elbows up. My saddle is rotated forward 'cos the old back and hips are not what they used to be! I need a hand keeping the hip rotation good so I use a saddle with good support and have the nose down...
Rides: G1L (Longest G1 – Hybrid) I’ve been spending a bit of time lately trying to get to grips with why I never liked 29 wheels and trying to find a way to make those big hoops handle for me as comfortably as I ride hybrid or 27.5! 😉 So… My set-up currently is all …
Bio coming soon
Bio coming soon
Bio coming soon
Rides: G1XL (Xtra Longest G1 – 29") Big wheels keep on turning! My set-up hasn't changed much in the last year or so, it's about making a bike that's going to last a season with minimal maintenance. I tend to ride off the back of the bike, therefore i have tried adapting a central riding position but at 6 foot 3 inches i have always had bikes that are way to small so my position is unlikely to change. Don't believe the headlines.... Long bikes with slack head angles still work for guys who ride off the back (refer to Greg Minnaar's latest results). I run my G1 set-up in 160mm format with stock mutators fitted (6.5mm SS /41mm CS), its perfect for a mixture of trail centre and off piste riding. I run a 30mm Renthal FatBar rolled way forward attached to a 35mm stem with 30mm of stem spacers (i rarely change this). Front tire choice varies between a Magic Mary and Wild Enduro running low 20's psi mounted to a 30mm wide 511 rim, no tire inserts - they don't seem like a finished product to me, i prefer a DH casing tire. Currently using a single crown fork running high pressure but not many volume spacers, i run the rebound fast, plenty of LSC and no HSC. The shock is matched to the fork, i run a 450lb/inch spring to keep me high in the travel. Rear rim is narrower than the front at 25mm wide, currently running a 471 rim and CX Ray bladed spokes for a stiff wheel build. Being honest i am not to fussed on rear tire choice, seeing as my weight is over the rear i can get most tires to work, again i happily take the weight penalty of a DH casing tire opposed to repairing flats on the side of the trail. Drivetrain is a mixture of parts from the big two companies, i choose to run Sram XX1 cassette and chain mated to an XTR mech and shifter. 11 speed set-up (32T / 10-42T)
Rides: G1XL (Xtra Longest G1 – 29") Big wheels keep on turning! My set-up hasn't changed much in the last year or so, it's about making a bike that's going to last a season with minimal maintenance. I tend to ride off the back of the bike, therefore i have tried adapting a central riding position but at 6 foot 3 inches....
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